Hawai’i Big Island Enthralling (heihei) Kalakupua

Story and Photos by John Sundsmo.

Feature Image: Puako Bay, Kohala, Big Island.

Mesmerized by the heihei (enthralling) supernatural (kalakupua) powers of the natural beauties on the Big Island of Hawai’i, I have given in to its powerful magic each time I visit. My favorite magic lies in the north of the island on the west Kohala Coast around Waikoloa, Mauna Lani, Puako Bay, and Kona; as well as on the eastern Hamakua Coast in Waipi’o Valley, historic Honoka’a Town, and Hilo.

Historical: Big Island geology dominates the geography. Formed by six volcanoes: three now dormant, Kohala, Mahukona, and Hualālai; and three periodically active, Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa, and Kilauea, the island is still growing. Most recently, Kilauea began venting in December. 2024 and is still adding landmass, with spectacular lava flows in the southeast of the island.

Polynesians came to the Hawaiian Islands in the 9th century. Sailing in canoes across thousands of miles of open ocean with only stars, waves, and migratory birds to guide them, these first settlers relied on instinct and nature-wisdom. They accomplished an unparalleled feat of navigation. With them, they brought taro, breadfruit, livestock, culture, and language. For more than five centuries, the Hawaiians were alone, sustaining themselves on their volcanic islands in the middle of the wide Pacific Ocean without outside interference or influence.

Welcoming to strangers, the first recorded Hawaiian contact with the outside world was made with the British. Captain James Cook arrived in January 1778 and described the contact as friendly. In the second contact, a misunderstanding led to Cook losing his life on the beach of what is now called Cook’s Bay on the southwest coast of the Big Island.

In 1810, the British helped the warrior chief Kamehameha establish the first Kingdom across all of the Hawaiian Islands. Later, Protestant missionaries, whaling ships, and sugar and pineapple plantations used Hawaiians as servants and forced labor. Over the years, waves of immigration from Japan, China, and the Philippines added greatly to the diversity of Hawaiian culture, as we observed firsthand in Honoka’a Town on the eastern Hamakua Coast.

Honoka’a Town: Founded by Chinese, Filipino, and Japanese immigrants brought in to work the sugar plantations, Honoka’a Town offers a view into life in the 1920s. My wife and I enjoy strolling the historic local stores that cater to local farmers who grow macadamia nuts and produce, as well as paniolos (cowboys) from nearby Parker Ranch in Waimea. The main street also welcomes tourists with gift shops, stores, a chocolatier, restaurants, and galleries displaying the works of talented local painters, sculptors, carvers, weavers, potters, and woodworkers.

Waipi’o (curved water) Valley: Two-thousand-foot cliffs with hundreds of waterfalls surround the private, sacred Hawaiian land. In the past, many native Hawaiians lived in the valley, known as The Valley of Sacred Kings. It is revered for its cultural heritage and as the place where King Kamehameha-I took refuge with strong chiefs and received his warrior training. What was once the winding Waipi’o River, opening into a wide lagoon with fish ponds and a thriving Hawaiian community, was erased by a 46-foot-high Aleutian tsunami in 1946, followed by a Chilean tsunami in 1960 and a massive flood in 1979. Today, only about 50 Hawaiians live in the valley, and taro and breadfruit fields have replaced the lagoon. A steep private road, (accessible only to residents), is the only access to the beauties which can only be explored on tours: e.g., Waipio Valley Shuttle Tours.

Hilo: In the 1800s, the Hilo Sugar Mill provided jobs for the production of 3,500 tons of cane sugar a year. Hilo is the largest settlement on the Big Island and home to a University of Hawaii campus, the county seat, a ‘blast from the past’ main street shopping district, the Lili’uokalani Japanese Garden, and Rainbow Falls.

The main street in Hilo (Kamehameha Avenue) is vintage 1950s, with a Kress Five-and-Dime store and ‘50s posters in the surrounding gift shops showcase works from talented local artisans. The shops invite exploration with quality wood sculptures, ukuleles, and guitars. To an outsider, Hilo seems to exude a laid-back and happy vibe without any fussy veneer.

Edo-style Japanese Garden: Waihonu Pond on Banyan Drive in downtown Hilo features a wonderful Japanese walking garden created in the early 1900s as a tribute to the Japanese immigrants who built the agriculture on the Big Island. The garden is named for the last ruling Hawaiian monarch, Queen Lili’uokalani.

Rainbow Falls at Wailuku River State Park: Located just a 10-15 minute drive uphill from downtown Hilo, Rainbow Falls is one of hundreds on the eastern Hamakua Coast of the Big Island.

Waimea, Parker Ranch, and the Saddle Road (Hwy 200): Across the “saddle” slopes between Mauna Kea and Kohala Mountain lies the Parker Ranch land. Founded in 1847 by John Parker, a Massachusetts sailor, and his Hawaiian princess wife, Kipikane, the cattle ranch is one of the largest in the United States, presently spanning 130,000 acres. At Waimea, the Parker Ranch center, visitors can find horseback rides, historical buildings, and an annual rodeo, enjoyed with local paniolos (Hawaiian cowboys, descendants of those taught the ropes by Mexican-California vaqueros).

We love the Saddle Road (Pu’u Hululu; Hwy 200) for the open views across the slopes of Mauna Kea and Kohala Mountain. The sky is often filled with puffy white clouds or even rain clouds marching across the horizon. Driving west-to-east from the dry Kohala western shore in December, we have often encountered massive climate change with heavy rains as we dropped down from the Saddle Road onto the eastern slopes toward Hilo. The rains sustain the verdant greenery and waterfalls of the Hamakua Coast, a wonderful contrast to the near-desert conditions on the western Kohala Coast. For us, the contrasting climates give us both of our loves, the lava-dry Kohala Coast with its ocean-blue, contrasting with the verdant-green of the Hamakua Coastal waterfall valleys.

Waikoloa: On the Kohala coast, fast-moving ‘A’a (jagged) lava from an eruption of Mauna Kea 4500 years ago left lava flows and black sand beaches that are still prominent in the landscape. Our favorite walks are along the beaches of Anaeho’Omalu Bay with its lava tide pools and iconic tropical palm trees. For us, an early morning stroll on the sand reawakens our imaginary magical, enchanting, and enthralling (heihei) supernatural (kalakupua) powers amid the abundant natural beauty and ever-changing ocean views, with cloud formations marching north to Maui, Oahu, and Kauai.

KekahaKai State Park: One of our favorite sunset walks is at the end of a lava road south of Waikoloa. A small, shallow bay dotted with palm trees gives us the iconic tropical vibe with spectacular sunset views.

The King’s Mall: The Kohala Coast, north of Waikoloa, was the birthplace of Kamehameha-I. The mall at Waikoloa celebrates his life and that of the descendant monarchy. Bronze wall plaques detail their accomplishments and gave us insight into the struggles of native Hawaiians.

Plaques in The King’s Mall: Quoting the monarchy’s history from the bronze wall plaques:

• Kamehameha-I (1758-1819): Kamehameha (“The Lonely One”) the Great was born in Kohala. Uniting all the major islands under one rule in 1810, he established himself as a fierce warrior, and wise and compassionate leader to his people.
• Kamehameha-II (1797-1824): Liholiho ascended the throne at a time when foreign influences and new standards and ideas were propelling the Hawaiians into the modern Western world. During his reign, the kapu system was abolished, and the missionaries arrived bringing Christianity, education, the printing press, as well as the introduction of whaling and the sandalwood trade.
• Kamehameha-III (1813-1854): Kauikeaouli was a strong leader and contributed the greatest number of reforms during his 30-year reign, the longest in the history of Hawai’i. His mild manner, good judgment, and solid character made him a king loved and greatly respected by his people.
• Kamehameha-IV (1834-1863): Alexander Liholiho, grandson of Kamehameha-I, brought a great appreciation for etiquette and ceremony to his court. He and his wife, Emma Rooke, showed great concern for the welfare of their people and established the Queen’s Hospital on Oahu.
• Kamehameha-V (1830-1872): Loi Kamehameha favored a stronger monarchy and placed much of the power back in the hands of royalty. He was credited with many public improvements and the acquisition of much land for the Hawaiian people. As he never married and designated no heir, the question of successor was taken up by the legislature and David Kalākaua, (from the ali’I class of counselors to Kamehameha-I), acceded to the throne in 1874.
• In 1891, after David Kalākaua’s passing, his sister was named Queen Liliu’okalani, Hawaii’s first and only queen, and the last ruling monarch. She attempted to draft a new constitution to restore power to the Hawaiian people and the monarchy. A coup led by foreign pro-American residents and the landing of US Marines deposed her in 1893, and after a later uprising, she was placed under house arrest. In 1895, under threat of execution, she abdicated the Hawaiian Kamehameha throne.
• In 1898, Hawaii was annexed by the United States along with Guam, the Philippines, and Puerto Rico. The Hawaiian Islands became a state in 1959. In 1993, the US government formally apologized to native Hawaiians for overthrowing the monarchy and depriving them of their sovereignty.

Most fortunately, despite all attempts to abolish it, the robust Hawaiian culture and society have survived the onslaught of immigration and foreign domination. The recent return of language and culture has been passed on to a new generation of Hawaiians, as well as to many appreciative present-day immigrants from the mainland.

Kohaniki Beach: Located near the Kona-Kailea International Airport, driving up to this pleasant little beach offers a wonderful interlude before boarding a plane, or while waiting for the check-in at a condo or hotel.

Kailua-Kona: Kailua was the first seat of government under King Kamehameha-I. After the royal government was moved to Lahaina, the small Kona fishing village was a retreat for the royal family. Today, with tourism and the Kailua-Kona International Airport, Kona town has grown.

Kona Coffee: First established from British plants by the Hawaiian royal family in 1828, Japanese immigrants grew coffee to pay for their land cost. The Kona coffee-growing climate is limited to a small 20-mile-by-2-mile (32km x 3.2km) area of the Kona region, which accounts for the high price of this special, full-bodied coffee.

IF YOU GO: The Hawai’i Big Island Tourism Website has helpful tools; For  Hiking, visit: https://bigislandhikes.com/  OR  https://www.alltrails.com/trail/hawaii/hawaii/  ; For horse-back tours on Kohala mountain at the 12,000 acre Kahua Ranch’s Kohala Naalapa Stables. https://www.naalapastables.com/; For Waipio Valley Shuttle Tours. https://www.waipiovalleyshuttle.com.