A Barge Cruise in Burgundy

Story by Carol Canter. Photos courtesy of European Waterways.

Impressions of a barge cruise in Burgundy are as intoxicating as the wines that we sniffed and swirled in our travels and let go to our heads; as green as the poplar-lined banks of the canals we traversed, slowly, every so slowly, for six days; and as crisp and fresh as the salads we crunched daily at lunch. These memories are gilded by the immense fields of sunflowers, which by our mid-August cruise on the 12-passenger La Belle Epoque, had begun to droop their heads.

Some of our fellow barge-mates ensconced themselves in cozy deck chairs under blue and white striped umbrellas and read book after book, played cards and napped, while a slice of bucolic Burgundy countryside slid by like a stage set framed by deck-side flower boxes of purple, red and white petunias.

Others documented each of the 44 écluses or locks we passed through, locks that raised or lowered our barge, like a ladder of water, to the next level of the canal. Most of us tried our skills cranking open or closing a lock or two, chatting and lending a hand to the lockkeepers along the way. A number of them sold homemade wine, honey, or arts and crafts; most tended elaborate gardens, and all closed for lunch from noon to 1 pm, so the barge would have to stay put during this sacred mealtime. When the barge deck was level with the canal bank, some of us grabbed bikes and hopped ashore, where we would pedal to every village within sight.

As a Francophile and someone who longs to stay in shape while indulging in every available taste of France’s finest food and wine, I biked as much as I could, out to explore the region while burning up calories for the next meal. My husband and another couple we befriended usually joined me. By the close of our first day out, when it became clear one couldn’t “miss the boat” — which never topped four miles per hour!! — we veered ever farther off the towpath that follows the canal and ventured back into tiny hamlets where we glimpsed country life, Burgundy style. We pedaled along apple-strewn pathways as we wound through villages of centuries-old stone houses with tiled roofs and geranium-filled flower boxes.

We watched villagers work in their gardens, harvesting plump red tomatoes bursting with flavor, tending rows of cabbage and bright orange squash. When the mobile market van pulled into town bringing fresh fish, meat and cheese daily, we gathered with the locals, listening in on their passionate food talk.

Biking led us to cemeteries and town squares where plaques honored village sons fallen in the last two world wars, and to tiny cafes to linger over steamy espressos. Everywhere, people were open and welcoming. We were invited into two homes; in one, I listened to verse by a woman who called herself a poète paysanne or “country poet.” In the second, a home with an ancient moulin, or mill that once ground wheat, we sampled kir royale, the quintessential aperitif of the region, made of crème de cassis (blackcurrant liqueur) blushing a sparkling burgundy, a special bottle the couple uncorked in our honor.

Onboard, the ambiance was so lovely that I could see why some passengers felt little urge to disembark. Our captain, Leigh Wooten from the British Isle of Jersey, had restored the one-time Dutch trading vessel, transforming it with rich warm woods, tasteful furnishings and ingenious use of space, into a cozy and beautiful floating hotel.

A stylish salon, the social center of the barge, boasted comfortable banquettes and a fine library and sound system. A nearby stairway led down to a tiny fitness studio with a sauna and six attractive cabins, each with a gleaming modern bathroom featuring a tub or shower. At night, a small section of the front deck opened to reveal a whirlpool spa, where four at a time could gather for a restful moonlit soak. The bar was well-stocked, though we tried to limit ourselves to the fine Burgundies poured for us at lunch and dinner.

The evening meal was romantic and elegant, with a long table for twelve set with linen, crystal, fresh flowers and candlelight, and such menu items as smoked duck breast, filet mignon of pork, Coquilles St. Jacques, plum tarte and more. But the lunches were my favorite. Maybe it was the vignette of sun-warmed hillsides grazed by white Charolais cattle that passed by the window as I sipped my Meursault, Nuits-St.-Georges, Vosne-Romanée or Hautes Côtes de Beaune. More likely it was the buffet table groaning under four different salads each day, salads that glistened and crunched with freshness: ruby beets with mustard seed, huge artichokes vinaigrette, tomatoes parmesan with olives, green beans with corn, lentils with shallots and mushrooms in a light cream sauce spiced with the region’s famous Dijon mustard.

Pascale, our chef and only French member of the English crew, created masterpieces in her kitchen without resorting to rich or heavy sauces. I felt virtuous and satisfied filling up on her healthful salads, even with a serving of the accompanying onion tart Strasbourgeois, vegetable gratin with cumin-spiced tomato coulis or chicken terrine.

We were educated at each meal about the cheeses and wines being served: the succulent orange-crusted Époisses washed in Marc de Bourgogne, a local eau-de-vie; blue-veined Bleu de Bresse; Tomme au raisin wrapped with grape pulp; Vieux Puant (or Old Smelly); and ripe Reblochon. These cheeses were paired with wines, and we each began to identify favorite combinations. The wines and hospitality at Domaine Jafflin in Nuits-St.-Georges were memorable, and the bottles we brought home recall that special tasting.

Our winery visit was a chance to survey a bit of the Côte d’Or, the golden slopes that produce the region’s best wines, and revel in the scenic vineyard landscape. Two white minivans whisked us off for this and other daily excursions from the barge.

One morning we roamed the colorful food and flower market in Dijon, examining the giant cauliflowers, artichokes and eggplants. Another afternoon we visited the walled city of Beaune and toured the Hôtel Dieu. This medieval marvel of Burgundian-Flemish art is built around an astounding courtyard whose glazed roof tiles gleam in striking geometric patterns. We wandered the gardens of the Abbaye de la Bussière one afternoon on our own, then gathered in the vans to visit the Château de Commarin with exquisitely preserved 16th-century tapestries.

That night we were taken to dinner at a rustic farmhouse with a blazing fire. Leigh, well-versed in the wines and foods of the region, helped us order. Liberated from our beloved barge for the evening, four of us went off in search of a disco in Dijon with Richard, a crew member several decades our junior. While we didn’t find the disco, we did croon a Righteous Brothers tune in a karaoke bar that night, dubbing our quintet — what else — “La Belle Epoque!” The next evening, after some lessons on board, we danced La Macarena with some locals at a tiny spot in the town of Vauvey.

On our final afternoon, we visited Chateauneuf en Auxois, the 11th-century hilltop castle with massive towers that we’d viewed for hours as we approached slowly along the canal. The weather had turned gray that day, challenging those of us angling for a shot of the imposing castle.

Back at the barge, Jack and I mounted bicycles and braved the light drizzle for one final ride. As we pedaled along a country road paralleling the canal, the clouds parted and suddenly the sun burnished the entire countryside golden. The castle shimmered on its elevated perch, alchemized from a medieval stone fortification into a fairy tale dwelling. We returned to La Belle Epoque, anchored on the canal below the castle to bask in the afterglow.

IF YOU GO:

Contact European Waterways at https://www.europeanwaterways.com/ or call 800–394–8630 Toll Free from USA. Expect variations on the itinerary I describe along the lower Burgundy Canal. Visit the website to choose both the barge and itinerary that best suit your interests.

Contact Burgundy-Tourism.com for information on the region.

Recently updated with details and photos, this story was previously published in National Motorist magazine.